Dico’art

Les tissus traditionnels africains : un patrimoine culturel à protéger urgemment

Alors que les communautés africaines prônent de plus en plus le retour aux sources, les tissus traditionnels africains deviennent le porte flambeau de cette cause. Les motifs, les couleurs, la technique de fabrication, les lieux qu’ils représentent, les mains que les confectionnent et les personnes qui les arborent, sont autant d’éléments qui permettent de définir son originalité. Il ne s’agit pas d’un simple morceau de tissu dépositaire d’une simple valeur économique, esthétique ou décorative. Les tissus traditionnels africains sont un véritable patrimoine culturel qui accompagne les communautés dans les cérémonies de réjouissance et de lamentation. D’après la manière dont le tissu est attaché ou porté, les peuples prennent connaissance de l’identité de la personne et du message qu’il transmet. Il renferme un code social authentique et décryptable par les communautés sources.

De nombreux pays africains sont dépositaires d’un savoir-faire textile extraordinaire porteur de l’histoire des royaumes et des peuples. Du Bogolan et du Bazin au Mali, au Korhogo en Côte d’Ivoire, en passant par le Kente au Ghana, les tissus traditionnels africains sont aussi majestueux que magnifiques. Ils donnent de l’allure et de la prestance à ceux et à celles qui les portent. On peut le constater sur des Chefs traditionnels comme Sa Majesté Sokoudjou Jean Rameau le Roi des Bamendjou et même sur des chefs d’État comme le président ghanéen Nana Akufo-Addo.

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Ce patrimoine culturel est un signe de prestige et de distinction. Les personnes honorées par les chefs traditionnels et les rois sont parées de ce vêtement afin qu’elles incarnent les valeurs communautaires qu’il renferme. Elles deviennent par ce geste des personnes à part entière de la société et des dignitaires respectables. Désormais, elles auront droit à des privilèges tels que prendre place aux côtés de la famille royale et assister à des cérémonies spéciales.

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Au Cameroun, le Ndop et le Toghu sont des tissus traditionnels africains qui sont passés au fils du temps du cadre ethnique au cadre national. Ils portent des symboles qui expliquent les règles sociétales instituées. Ils aident à la compréhension de l’organisation de la société et traduisent le regard de celle-ci sur le monde visible et sur le monde invisible. Ces biens du patrimoine culturel de l’Ouest pour l’un et du Nord-Ouest pour l’autre, reflètent l’identité de deux communautés sœurs. Des personnalités politiques nationales et étrangères, les vedettes de la musique et du cinéma sont entre autre des influenceurs qui font de ces tissus des objets de fierté nationale. L’effet de mode crée une effervescence populaire autour d’eux, les popularise et les rend accessible à tous.

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Malheureusement, ils subissent les entraves de l’appropriation culturelle, de la contrefaçon, du détournement et de la dénaturation. Des marques comme Hermes s’en accaparent sans prendre en compte sa valeur culturelle. Elles les exploitent sans reverser une part des bénéfices au peuple qui les a conçus. Pourtant, si ces tissus disposaient de la mention de la propriété intellectuelle, ils engrangeraient des bénéfices considérables pour les communautés détentrices du savoir-faire de leur fabrication et de leur confection. Pour l’instant, ces tissus semblent être des rivières ou tout le monde vient puiser au détriment de ces communautés. Protéger ces tissus traditionnels par la propriété intellectuelle est un moyen efficace pour sauvegarder leur authenticité, leur originalité et garantir leur rentabilité sur le plan national. Elle leur accorde une protection juridique qui permettra d’encadrer leur manipulation en encourageant des investissements légaux.

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À cela le ministère en charge de la culture devrait faciliter la démarche pour introduire leur technique de conception dans la liste indicative du pays afin d’accroitre leur protection sur le plan national et faire reconnaitre leurs origines africaines. Même si leur source et leur authenticité créent des polémiques, il demeure que le Ndop et le Toghu, par exemple, sont des tissus royaux auxquels des peuples s’identifient. Ils l’actualisent en les fabriquant au quotidien depuis de nombreuses années. Ils ont développé un savoir-faire et un ensemble de pratiques autour d’eux. Ces tissus traditionnels africains disposent d’une histoire remarquable et servent à transmettre des messages et des savoir propres codifiés au fils du temps. Malgré la mondialisation, la modernisation et la vulgarisation, les véritables tissus traditionnels fabriqués selon les techniques anciennes existent et vivent de beaux jours dans la zone rurale. L’aspect immatériel de ces biens du patrimoine culturel africain, est encore fortement perceptible. Mais il est impératif de le protéger en travaillant dans ce sens avec les tisserands pour qu’ils suivent les techniques traditionnelles de fabrication dans le respect des valeurs afin de barrer la route à la contrefaçon.

Certains jeunes essaient de valoriser les tissus traditionnels africains. Mais, ils défendent les motifs et les couleurs au détriment de la matière en elle-même. Ils arborent, souvent naïvement, des contrefaçons qui dévalorisent l’objet. La raison est qu’ils ignorent qu’il s’agit d’un patrimoine culturel régi par un ensemble de règles. Dans ce sens, certains tissus comme le Ndop, se revêtent par une tierce personne sous l’autorisation directe ou indirecte d’un chef traditionnel. Ainsi, tant qu’aucune action pour leur protection ne sera faite, des citoyens africains, en particulier, consommeront le faux dans l’ignorance la plus absurde du tort causé à la culture.

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